Appliance Hints and Tips

The Pros and Cons of Extended Service Contracts and Warranties
Should You Consider an Extended Warranty for Your New Appliance?

Warranty Reviews
While having an extended warranty can sometimes save you appliance repair costs
downstream, it can in certain circumstances, be a waste of money. The nature and
benefits of extended warranties have greatly changed in the last decade and with
the emergence of third party insurers, it behooves the smart shopper to do their
research before buying an extended warranty for a new appliance. This also includes Home Warranty Companies.
Life expectancy of most appliances nowadays
Appliance                            Years
 Range -                                15
 Refrigerator -                        13
 Trash Compactor -                 6
 Dishwasher -                          9
 Microwave -                           9
 Washer -                              10
 Dryer -                                  13
 Disposal -                             12
 Water Heater -                      11
 Air Conditioning / Heating -    10
What Value Are You Actually Getting?
An important consideration when looking at an extended warranty is how the cost of
the policy compares to the price of the appliance. Buying a $30 extended warranty for
a small appliance worth $70 just does not make sense, but a $70 2-year warranty for a
major appliance may be worth it .
It's also wise to review the policy detail including all the fine print. This is
sometimes difficult to do in a crowded retail outlet when you're making a purchase,
but buying blind should never be an option. Find out if there is an eligible timeframe
after buying the item to get the extended coverage, and if you can have a copy of the
service contract to read before buying.
It's rare to find warranties that provide full repair or replacement of all components,
most will have limited clauses. Find out what the warranty does cover and whether it
includes labor and shipping, or in the case of a large appliance, a home service call.
These charges can add up and in some cases, the total cost to have an appliance repaired
under an extended warranty, could be higher than replacing the item in the first place.
You cannot assume that an extended warranty covers the very same detail as your initial
manufacturer's warranty. If warranty details sound confusing or vague, ask for an
explanation to make sure you understand fully what will be covered and who will do
the work. Is it someone local?
How Long Will the Warranty Period Be Extended?
A new appliance usually comes with a manufacturer's warranty already included in the
price and this period will vary. If your new washer has a one year warranty period, you
should consider how much further the coverage will be extended when you purchase a
service contract. You should also ask when the extended period will start to ensure
you are not paying for duplicate coverage.
Considering Reliability & Durability:
If the cost of an extended warranty is high and you're not sure if it's worth it, you
might want to consider other factors such as the reliability of the appliance brand or
how durable the appliance will be - whether it will stand up to the next few years of
constant use. Will it get light or heavy duty use in your home?
When it comes to an appliance with high tech features, servicing it yourself may not be
adequate and you may need to pay for a qualified technician.
In this case, extended coverage may be a good idea, as long as these types of repairs are
included in the warranty.
Some retailers do offer over-the-counter replacements for certain purchases. In this case,
if there is any hint of problems with the item, you may be able to get it replaced easily
before this coverage ends and save the cost of an additional warranty.
Make sure you send in your registration form this is the only way the company can
inform you directly if there is a problem or recall on that certain item.
Buy an Extended Warranty Only From a Trusted Source:
Many third parties now offer extended warranties. In fact, some manufacturer warranties
may also be honored by a contracted firm. Research the company offering the extended
warranty coverage and buy only from a trusted source. The best source for extended coverage
is from the manufacturer where servicing is done by someone who knows the product and has
original parts.
When You Need to Make a Claim:
It's a good idea to file your extended warranty papers along with your product manual and
to make note of the ending coverage date. When and if you need to make a claim, review the
policy for servicing and shipping instructions. If in doubt that the problem may be covered,
avoid unneccesary charges by calling first to confirm coverage. Keep a record of the date
and shipping details.
The Bottom Line:
If the price is reasonable, the appliance will more than likely need servicing in the
future and coverage includes most parts and components, an extended warranty is well
worth the expense if the item seemed very expensive to purchase. But only buy from a
trusted source and always read the entire policy.
We always tell the customer most of the repairs are cheaper than what you will pay for
the extended warranty. Unless it is something like a refrigerator where you can have the
sealed system go out.

Air Purifiers
An air cleaner or purifier has a very important job description - to improve the air you
breathe by trapping airborne particles such as dust, animal dander, cigarette smoke and
pollen. But its efficiency can be severely hampered by a lack of proper care and
Maintaining your air cleaner requires a little time and effort and you'll breathe better
for it. You do your part and the air cleaner will do the rest. Here's a few simple care
and maintenance tips for your air purifier.
•Vacuum dust regularly around your air cleaner, especially the exterior grills and panels.

•Change the HEPA and other filters according to your operating manual. Filter lifespans
vary slightly between products, but generally HEPA-type filters require changing every 12
months, and carbon filters should be changed every 3-6 months. Some air cleaner models
have convenient filter change indicators. Remember that if you have more than the average
amount of allergens or animal dander in your home, the lifecycle of your filters will be
reduced and you may need to change them more often.

•Washable pre-filters should be washed in warm soapy water and thoroughly dried before
inserting in your air cleaner.
•Order replacement filters in pairs so you always have one set handy when a change is
required. HEPA-type filters are a little costly and may require budgeting - so plan
•Maintain proper clearances around the air cleaner as recommended by the manufacturer.
•Ensure that clothing or other items do not cover or restrict the air flow of your cleaner.
•If your air cleaner has a built-in ionizer, ensure that it is turned on.
Keeping your air cleaner working efficiently will also improve the lifespan of the unit
itself. A little care goes a long way!
Air Quality Appliance Care
Air cleaners, purifiers and humidifiers often operate for extended periods of time and
since the function of these appliances is to efficiently improve indoor air quality,
care and maintenance is very important. It can also help to extend their lifecycle. Care
should include filter changes and routine cleaning of the appliances, as well as cleaning
for seasonal storage.

Most appliances come with manufacturer recommendations as to how often to change or
wash filters, but these are soon forgotten not long after consumers read their product
manual. Yet, there are good reasons to follow these guidelines and in some cases, you
should even maintain filters more often than recommended.
Filters are used to remove particles that can restrict air flow and reduce appliance
efficiency and to prevent dust and dirt from penetrating to the motor, which could
drastically reduce its lifecycle. In appliances such as vacuums, furnaces, air cleaners
and humidifiers, filters trap and/or reduce allergens and dust from being exhausted back
to the room during operation. Filters therefore play a large role in improving indoor air
quality while helping your appliance work more efficiently. While one filter may be
adequate for a certain appliance, the presence of HEPA and/or multi-stage filters,
provides a better filtration system to remove allergens from the home.
The cost to replace appliance filters is usually fairly low except for specialty and
HEPA filters, which tend to vary in price, depending on size and design. Buying an
appliance that has washable filters can save you on-going maintenance costs while making
it convenient to care for your appliance.
Filter change recommendations are based on average home use and should be adjusted
accordingly. If your home has pets, allergy sufferers, windows are open often or your
home just seems to be a magnet for dust/dirt, filters should be changed or washed more
often than recommended. Unsure when to change filters? If your appliance does not have
a filter change indicator, you'll need to check their condition often to establish a
routine replacement schedule. Dirty filters or the presence of dirt clogs signals the
need for a change or cleaning. Check your product manual for how to change filters and
note any special care tips, such as wick-filter humidifiers which may require the filter
to be wet when replaced.
It's a good idea to keep a small supply of filters on hand. In fact, when you purchase
an appliance that uses filters, buy at least one set of replacements at the same time.
Record the filter name and number for future reference and locate a source of supply.
Routine filter cleaning will help your appliance work efficiently, extend its life,
reduce energy costs and allow filtration systems to work properly.

Cleaning tips
Use 1/2 cup isopropyl alcohol in dishpan of warm water- will
loosen icy matter and clean
while removing odors. Best of all no clean up after.
Clean coils on back or bottom of unit
There are special coil cleaning brushes we sell to help reach
between and underneath. This will help your unit run more effeciently.
If you have a refrigerator or freezer that has to be defrosted.
Use a hair dryer or better yet unplug or turn control to off and
let it sit for a few hours. Have a few towels to clean up any
water and there will be some.
Chosing a chest to a upright unit freezer.
Chest are great at keeping the cold in when opening the unit.
But can be difficult finding items quickly.
Uprights take up much less space and are easier to find items.
Chosing a size that is right for your personnal needs.
Figure for two people a 8-10 cubic foot should suffient. For each
additional peson add 1 cubic foot.
If you have to move your refrigerator or freezer look at the
compressor in the bottom back of unit, You should see copper
lines coming out one side only. This side should be tilted upward
if you have to put on dolly or lay down. This helps keep oil in
compressor from going up into lines. When done moving, wait at
least 12-24 hours before plugging in, to settle oil back into compressor.
Door Seal
Have door seal not sealing properly you may not need a new
gasket. If it does not have a tear in the gasket it may just have
hardened, soften it with some Vaseoline petroleum jelly and keep it shut for a few
days. You may need to hold it in place with heavy duty tape. 
It may soften and reform. Or the door itself may be warped out of shape.
Refrigeration/Freezer Temperatures
The temperatures in your refrigerator should be 35-38 degrees. The
freezer should be 5 above to -5 below zero. When in a defrost cycle
it will go up about 20-25 degrees for no more than a 30 minute period.
Check to make sure both controls are set about medium setting
(A-E should be set at C. 1-9 should be at 4-5.
Refrigerator/Freezer Care
Freezers should be located away from streaming sunlight or heat sources. Otherwise, they
work much harder than necessary. Removing interior ice build-up improves air flow and
helps to maintain proper freezer temperature.

Several things can help a refrigerator to work more efficiently:
•Vacuum/brush the compressor coils located at the back. Or underneath.
•Inspect and replace torn, loose or moldy door seals.
•Maintain recommended interior temperatures in both the refrigerated and freezer
•Leave the door open only as long as required. Avoid extended browsing or menu
planning with the door open.

Location of Your Freezer

Placing your freezer directly near a heat source, outside in warm climates, or where the
sun will shine on it, will cause it to work harder than it needs to - increasing energy
costs. Find a cool, level and dry space, with adequate clearance at the back for good air
circulation, and room overhead or to the side to open the freezer door.

Care & Maintenance

•Check the seal occasionally to ensure proper sealing. If the seal is not adequate, the
door may require an adjustment or the seal may need to be replaced. You can do the dollar bill test by closing the door on a dollar bill and see how easy it is to pull out while door is shut. If it is tight to pull out the seal is good.

•Defrost and clean the freezer regularly. Ice build-up will lower it's efficiency.
•Safeguard your small children by keeping freezers locked.
•Vacuum any exposed condensor coils regularly to ensure proper air circulation.
•Keep temperature constant to keep food from spoiling.
•Label and date food contents for quick retrieval, and ensure that foods are properly
•These tips are general in nature; consult your owner's manual for specific care

Moving Day Tips

•Make sure of the lines coming out of the compressor is going up so the oil stays in compressor.

•You might consider securing the door shut to prevent movement and protect the hinges.
•Remove glass shelving before moving the appliance.
•Wait at least 12-24 hours before plugging your freezer in, to ensure the oil has time
to drain back to its proper place in the compressor. Older freezers should have an even
longer waiting period - as the oil takes longer to relocate.
•After an extended period in freezing weather, your freezer may not appear to be working
after being plugged in, but as it adjusts to the warmer room temperature, the thermostat
will tell it to operate.

Question: What is a Counter Depth Refrigerator?

What is a counter or cabinet depth refrigerator and how does it differ from a regular
freestanding refrigerator?

Answer: A counter or cabinet depth refrigerator is a full-size model available in
various capacities and styles, but designed to fit flush with standard cabinets. They
are usually between 25" - 27" deep compared to traditional 30" - 32" depths.

Cabinet depth refrigerators look very stylish and allow more workable space in the
kitchen. However, they are higher and much wider than traditional models and this
should be noted when considering installation options.
Always measure allowable width, cabinet depth and height
before buying for best installation results. Cabinet depth refrigerators are generally
more expensive than standard models.

Cabinet or counter depth refrigerators should not be confused with under-cabinet
refrigerators which are smaller compact units designed to either fit under the counter
or beside the cabinets, or built-in refrigerators which are custom designed to match
certain decors and can be full enclosed to blend with the cabinetry.

Chest vs Upright Freezers - Which Style is Better?

Freezer Box
Although a refrigerator freezer may provide sufficient frozen food storage for a
small family, a chest or upright freezer can be very convenient and can even save
you money in the long run. Having ample freezer storage allows you to take advantage
of bulk food specials, freeze seasonal berries and jams, as well as everyday and
special event baking, make-ahead meals and wild game or large meat orders.

What style of freezer should you buy and what will work better for you? There are
trade-offs to each type of freezer - you have to choose based on price, capacity,
conveniences, energy efficiency and installation. Both styles of freezers are generally
sold in 5 - 25 cu. ft. sizes, but there are capacity differences in the same size chest
and upright of freezers. It's easier to find the mid-range freezer sizes in stores and
not all freezers are available in self-defrost models.

Having a freezer (or two) in your home can add another dimension worth considering.
Instead of having a refrigerator/freezer in your kitchen, you could choose an
all-refrigerator model which would greatly increase cold food storage, and keep your
frozen foods in one or two freezers. It should be noted however, that freezers will
increase your energy costs while providing this storage convenience.

Chest Freezers
Price, Capacity & Energy:

The most economical type of freezer is the chest model. Basically every inch of a
chest freezer is usable storage. Although there are certain chest models that have
automatic defrost or are frost-free, most chest freezers are manual defrost, a task
which requires several hours or a whole day to accomplish. Because of the built-in
side wall insulation, chest freezers hold their cold temperatures very well and
therefore use the least energy to run. In fact, during a power outage or a household
move to another locale, as long as the lid is not open, an unplugged chest freezer
can keep the contents frozen for 2 or even 3 days, depending on the frozen food quantity.

Manual chest freezers tend to have longer lifecycles than upright models.


Convenience Features:

Chest freezers usually come with at least one wire basket to help you organize the
contents. You can segregate types of foods using cardboard boxes to better organize
freezer contents. However, chest freezers require a lot of bending, reaching and
moving frozen foods to find what you're looking for. That being said, they do accommodate
odd-shaped, long or large items which may be difficult to place in an upright freezer.
There are some models on the market that have a bottom drawer accessible from the
outside of the chest freezer, but while this can add convenience to a chest model,
it will also reduce capacity slightly.

Installation Requirements:

Because of the width of a chest freezer, which will vary depending on the size, it's
footprint is larger than what is needed for an upright model, even for a small chest
freezer. You'll need to ensure that there is enough space to place it and sufficient
head room above the freezer to fully open the door. Check measurements before buying
to ensure you have a spot for it. It's worth mentioning that when choosing a chest
freezer, you should consider the path to and inside the house, how many turns or
doorways you'll need to go through to get it in place. Although chest models are now
made slightly narrower than years ago, it's not unusual to have to remove a door or
two to get it inside the house and beyond. Always locate a freezer in a dry level area.

Upright Freezers
Price, Capacity & Energy:

Upright freezers are more expensive than chest models yet provide less usable storage
capacity; a difference of about 10 - 15% less. Prices are influenced by capacity and
storage systems, as well as convenience features like auto or manual defrost. It can
be hard to detect whether an upright has self defrost or not, you'll need to confirm
that with the dealer. This feature can cost you a $100 or more plus it will use more
energy, but the convenience is well worth this extra cost. An auto defrost feature in
an upright works similar to a refrigerator auto-defrost by cycling off/on to keep the
freezer free of ice build-up.


Convenience Features:

Probably the best convenience feature of an upright freezer is the ability to better
organize the frozen foods, making it easier to monitor and rotate contents to keep
frozen foods current. Some upright models have versatile storage systems with adjustable
and removable door storage bins, sliding and adjustable shelving and pull out baskets or
bins. All these features add to the ease of sorting and storing contents. Although you
can better organize an upright, there are constraints. Items such as large turkeys or
long frozen items may not fit without removing a shelf to accommodate the size.


Installation Requirements:

An upright freezer has a smaller footprint than chest models. Think in terms of placing
a refrigerator when considering a location for an upright freezer. It needs room for
height as well as width, door swing space and at least 1" behind it. Also consider
which way the door swings and whether it is reversible.


Which is Better - a Chest or Upright Freezer?
If you can afford the extra cost and you love to keep everything organized in its place -
an upright may be best for you. If you're just looking for economical frozen food storage,
a chest is cheap to buy and operate. The type of freezer that best suits you also depends
on your particular lifestyle and needs. Some people prefer to have an upright for everyday
frozen foods while they store seasonal game/meat or special baking in a chest freezer. For
the best energy efficiency, choose a freezer that is Energy Star Qualified.

Do not use aluminum foil under burners or under elements in oven. If
they touch the element it may short out.
Got a wire mesh filter that is getting nasty, in your range hood? Try
cleaning it by boiling it with some hot soapy water. Or putting it in
the dishwasher.
Certain charcoal filters are sometimes made to where you can
replace the charcoal.
Do not throw away expecting to just go out and buy a new one. They
have to be specially made by size.
Length by width by thickness.
Difference between continuous clean oven and self-cleaning
Continuous clean means that it will clean as you use it. Then you can just
wipe off the walls.
Self Clean styles are the ones that you have to program to clean them.
That style will get up to 900 degrees and burn off anything on the walls.
Do Not Use oven cleaner on either of the styles mentioned above it will
ruin the oven cavity.
Has the oven just quit for no reason? Old style Frigidaire units have manual
clocks with 3 knobs. Possibly when wiping off the stove you bumped these
small knobs putting them out of position. Turn them to manual or til they pop out.

Cleaning the inside of your cavity will help prevent service later. Those little
food particles built up in the corners can arc and burn the inside caivty or worse
send the waves cooking your food back into the megnatron which produced
them, burning it up.
Those metal racks are just the same food build up on them will do just as much
damage. If the coating starts peeling off them quit using them.
Be extremely cautious when boiling water in microwave when it is done it still
has enough air built up in bottom of cup to send splattering all over you.
Inside of your dishwasher getting dirty? Put some powdered bleach in and
run it empty. Will clean and disenfect.
Using liquid dish soap can sometimes make your dishwasher leak around
the door. Because liquid soap will build up in lines causing too much soap.
Try running it aboout 3 times with a 1/2 cup salt in it each time.
This will help dissolve the soap.
Are your racks starting to rust but the rest of the unit is still in good shape.
We sell a touch up paint and tips kit to make your racks stop leaving rust spots
on your dishes.
Before You Buy a Dishwasher - Dishwasher Buying Tips

Best Dishwashers
Dishwashers which were once thought to be a luxury appliance have evolved into must-have
time-saving kitchen appliances, and prices are mainly affected by capacity and special
features, but can also be influenced by certain finishes such as stainless steel. Models
are enhanced by numerous features and energy-saving options, so it's best to have an idea
of what these features are, then you can decide what really matters to you.
Capacity - Standard 24" or 18" Compact Dishwasher Size
The first consideration is capacity:
An 18" dishwasher generally is adequate for 2 - 3 persons and can hold up to 6 or 8
standard place settings.
A regular 24" model has a capacity for 12 to 14 standard place settings and is sufficiently
The number of place settings can be deceiving and for this reason, I would recommend a standard 24"
dishwasher for family use. A compact 18" unit is great for a couple or small kitchen and
occasional use.
•Compare Dishwasher Prices
Type of Dishwasher - Built-in, Portable or Countertop Models
Your choice of whether to buy a built-in, portable or countertop model will depend greatly
on whether you are renting or own your home. Each model has its own benefits and constraints
and 'What Type of Dishwasher is Right for You' will help you to sort through these

Energy Saving Considerations
Energy conservation is in! A dishwasher that proudly displays the Energy Star symbol will
save you energy dollars compared to non-qualified models. Some dishwashers even have low
water features or 'quick wash' options which will benefit you if you are paying for measured
water use. Another energy saver is a 'delay start' which is great if your electricity usage
is calculated for off peak and on peak pricing - you set it to wash later when energy is
Garborator or Hard Food Disposal Feature
This is certainly a priority feature if you do not like to scrape, pre-wash or rinse your
dishes before loading them into the dishwasher. Installed right in the unit, you wouldn't
even know it's there. If unsure if this feature is included, don't hesitate to ask the
Washing Cycles
The most important dishwashing cycles are Light, Regular, Pots & Pans and Econo settings.
The econo cycle will air dry dishes saving on heating element energy costs. Additional
enhanced cycles are Glass or Stemware, Rinse, Quick Wash and Sani Wash, which all add to
convenience benefits. A stainless steel interior is a beautiful feature but will not improve
washing performance - it is mainly a style option. However, a stainless steel washing arm
will not rust and will be more durable.
Performance Features
Performance is influenced by the number of washing levels - how and where the jets of water
are distributed during the washing cycle. A three tier system will provide a good washing
and more levels will ensure even better coverage, but price will be influenced. A 'quiet'
package is also a good feature. Detergent and rinse agent dispensers are usually standard
features. Electronic sensors are definitely nice to have features. A child safety lock is
important if you have small children.
Stacking & Racking Features
Standard dishwashers usually have two racks for dishes but some models now have three
expanding on loading options and capacity. Special features can also include adjustable
shelves, racks built to accommodate tall glasses or stemware, odd shaped and tall items,
or convertible racks for multi uses. A small closed rack for baby bottles and rings is
also available on some models.
Cutlery or Flatware Trays
The position of the silverware tray is usually a matter of preference, and is generally
not influenced by washing performance. I tend to prefer a compact tray that sits on the
bottom rack, and that easily removes for loading and unloading cutlery. Others prefer a
model that is attached to the inside of the dishwasher door which may take less room.

Dishwashers are a tremendous help in the kitchen, not only as time-saving appliances, but
also to help sanitize dishes and reduce the risk of illness from bacteria and germs.
There are dishwashers on the market to suit different lifestyles, with varying degrees of
portability and installation requirements. So before you start shopping, it is advisable
to know exactly what type of dishwasher is right for you to ensure it will fit nicely in
your home and provide you many years of convenience.
Built-in Under-Counter Dishwashers and Dish Drawers
These built-in installed units provide the best operating convenience, being permanently
located for easy access with no need to relocate it to the kitchen sink every time you
need to use it. Since there is no hook-up to the faucet, your kitchen sink can be used
for other purposes at the same time your dishwasher is running.
These dishwashers do require a plumbing installation to your home's waterworks, and
instructions are usually available with the purchase, or through the manufacturer or
You will also lose a fair size cupboard for this installation, with the standard width
of dishwashers being 24", and compact ones that have an 18" width. If you have ample
cupboards in your kitchen, the convenience of a built-in dishwasher will quickly outweigh
the loss of storage space.
After installation, if perchance you have a 6" to 8" width of cupboard space left
under-counter, this provides a terrific narrow storage cupboard for cookie sheets, trays
and muffin tins and a custom hinged door is easy to cut and hang for this size of cupboard.
Dish drawersare a wonderful dishwasher style providing a very stylish look for any decor
with ease of drawer access and increased capacity convenience. However this newer styling
comes with a higher price tag, and installation may differ slightly from a regular built-in
Keep in mind that if you are planning a move in the future, a permanently installed
dishwasher would be expected to remain with the home. For this reason, built-in dishwashers
or dish drawers are not advisable for a rental home or apartment.
Portable Free-Standing Dishwashers
Suitable for a family and with no special plumbing installation required, portable
dishwashers are a great option for apartment and rental home dwellers. They only require
a parking space in your kitchen, and operation requires relocating it and connecting with
an adapter to the kitchen hot water faucet when required.
These units generally have the same features and capacity as their built-in counterparts,
and they also provide additional counter workspace since most have a butcher block or
durable counter top. There is also no storage space sacrificed for these models, but it is
advisable to review your kitchen format for the most convenient location for it. At one
time these units were higher priced, but now they are comparable in price to built-in
models. It's the capacity and additional features that mostly affect price.
Countertop or Tabletop Dishwashers
These are the most economical of all models and require a counter space to locate them
close to the sink. Operating connection is a simple faucet hook-up and units generally
run as long as the faucet is turned on.
I have used a countertop dishwasher for several years with a small family, and found it
cleaned well as long as dishes were rinsed or food residue removed, and the unit was
operated immediately after a meal. Capacity is usually a place setting for four and
cookware or serving pieces would require handwashing. Dishes can either be air or hand
dried. However, these are impractical if counter space is at a premium and inadequate for
a large family.
Dishwashers have become very economical to purchase and energy-wise to operate, making
them a valuable time-saving and must-have kitchen appliance. Now that you've decided what
type of dishwasher is right for you, Before You Buy a Dishwasher will provide other buying
tips and considerations.
Dishwasher Loading Errors
Dishwashers are wonderful appliances that can really save you kitchen clean-up time so
you can enjoy the finer things in life. But, improper dishwasher loading can shorten the
lifespan of your kitchenware, create hazardous situations and hinder a clean washing,
which may require running another dishwashing cycle.
Two glasses are positioned way too close. Dishes are affected by the vibration
of the dishwashing cycle and this slight movement can cause your glassware to break or
items to chip. Allow a little space between breakable items.
The cup handle is actually touching the glass and this can lead to broken
The cup is sitting on a metal meat fork which can cause the rim of the
cup to chip.
The cereal bowl is too straight, almost facing up; it should be slanted
The soup ladle is laying right side up and should be right side down.
Large items may block certain things from getting water as it should.
Use care when loading your dishwasher and consider the direction of the water jets. Some
dishwashers have more washing arms and jets than others. Position items with that in mind
to ensure your dishes will come out clean.
Dishwasher Care
While some dishwashers have built-in garberators that break down food particles left on
the dishes, some do not and it's easier on those appliances if food scraps are removed
before loading.
You should inspect the condition of the door seal periodically and keep it clean. When
water or dirt builds up on the seal, it can cause mold which is difficult to get rid of.
A loose or broken seal should be replaced as it can lead to unwanted leaks.
Dishwashers benefit from a routine interior wash with special scale-reducing solutions
sold for this purpose. It keeps all parts working properly.
We recommend a 1/2 hp unit for most homes. A smaller one isn't good for more than
1-2 people also for stringy type foods like celery.
A larger unit would be for commercial use, which most people don't need in home.
Starting to get a bit of a odor in your disposal try putting some baking soda
down it.
There is a reset button on the bottom of the unit in case it just shuts down. Or if something get jammed in unit.
Your front loader have a smell to it. Leave the door open when not using
it plus wipe it down when finished including the gaskets around the door and
the Bellow between the tub and the main opening. Using something like vinegar
every week or so. Since these units use less water they don't flush away
everything that top loaders do. We sell monthly tablets that you can use
that will help clean away that mildew and odor.
If your washer is draining as fast as it is filling check the drain hose if it has
been moved lately. The hook on the end of the the drain hose should be
level with the head top of the machine.
If your machine seems to be unlevel many of the units out there have self
leveling legs. Lift the back of the machine up a couple of inches then drop
it back down.
As with dryers, avoid oversized loads unless your washer model can accommodate them.
Check and remove clothing pocket debris that can become trapped within the washer.
Front-load models require extra care to prevent a build-up of mold within the washer.
High-efficiency washers require HE detergents and models equipped with a cleaning cycle
should be routinely cleaned.
Figure most load sizes washing different size and weight material together helps let them move freely. As for top load washers a small load is about 1/3 of the tub, medium load is 1/2, a large load
is no more than 3/4 full. This still gives clothes plenty of room to move efficiently around in tub.
A front load washer will automatically adjust for the load capacity but still do not over load these units. They aren't miracle workers.
Is your dryer running just no heat? Check the vent before pulling it out from
the wall look in the back and make sure it is not too close to the wall and
kinking or crushing the 4" vent hose. Most people lean against their unit to
turn the knobs. To prevent this take a couple pieces of boards about a foot
long each, place them end to end against the dryer and the wall.
If this does not take care of the problem check vent going out, it shoud not
be vented anymore than 7-8 ft max. straight out. Not up the wall or down into
the foundation. Water does not travel up so it will not get the moisture out of
the dryer. Going down into the foundation there is usually moisture down there
already or if you live where we do at sea level it will not get the moisture out
either. Keeping this cleaned out on a regular basis will also help your electric bill.
Clean your lint filter after each use so the lint does not build up in the dryer.
Introduction to Dryer Vent Cleaning
We want to make sure you know to clean your dryer and vent we will show you how to remove
dangerous lint build up in your dryer and dryer venting. Excessive lint build up occurs
slowly and gradually.
You don't realize it is happening. You think that by cleaning out the lint filter after
each use you are doing your job and maintaining the dryer. Not quite!
A full load of wet clothes contains about a half gallon of water. Lint is created from the
clothes as water is removed during the drying process. This lint will build up in crevices
deep down inside the lint filter trap, and all along the dryer vent hose. At the end of the
day, your dryer is the number 1 source of fire in the home.
In 1999 the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (USCPC) developed a report called the
“Report on Electric and Gas Clothes Dryers.” In that report they determined that of the
15,000 fires studied in one year, electric dryers were over 2.5 times more likely to be
the cause of the fire than gas dryers. Fires originated most frequently from two places:
dryer venting and the lint trap.
What are the warning signs that dangerous lint build up is occurring in your dryer and
venting system? Well, the symptoms may include:
•Clothes take longer and longer to dry;
•Clothes don't fully dry;
•Clothes are hotter than normal at the end of the drying cycle;
•The outside of dryer gets very hot;
•The outside exhaust vent flapper does not open very much indicating low exhaust velocity;
•Laundry room becomes more humid than it is usually;
•Burnt smell is evident in the laundry room.
Dryer Vent Cleaning Brush Kit
To effectively clean your dryer and dryer vent hoses/venting system, you will need a
special brush for this dryer repair. Vacuum attachments alone do not work as well because
they do not agitate the lint to separate it from the duct and it is this physical agitation
that is important.
There are a few different dryer duct cleaning brush kits or tools out there.

The brush kit will come with a long bristle brush to clean the lint screen but the important
component is the specialized round, thick bristled brush that cleans out the round 4" dryer
duct. The brush tip fastens to a flexible fiberglass shaft that can be added onto to
increase the length.
Remove the Lint Trap Filter
This is the step you are most familiar with and probably do on a regular basis such as
after each load. As a matter of fact, this step is probably all you have ever done. Although
this step of cleaning the lint filter is important, it
does not solve the problem of lint build up in the dryer or in the ducting. However it is
important as a first line of defense and it needs to be done regularly.
•Remove the lint screen by pulling it straight out;
•Clean the screen of any lint by gently brushing it with the fine bristled cleaning brush.
Vacuum Lint Trap Housing Cavity
Use Lint Brush to Dig Out Lint Trapped in the Housing and Vacuum Away Any Lint.
OK, now we start getting to areas of the dryer where you're going to find all kinds of
lint hidden away. The next area you want to clean is the lint trap housing cavity, the
cavity from which you pulled the screen out. You'll need the long flexible fiberglass
handle of the brush kit to get into this area.
•Extend the brush all the way into the bottom of the cavity;
•Using a gentle and slight twisting motion, pull out the brush to expose the clumps of
lint it has removed;
•Using a household vacuum cleaner or shop vacuum, vacuum the brush head clean of any lint;
•Repeat this process until there is no more lint that can be removed from the cavity.
Disconnect Sections of Dryer Vent
Lint Clogged Vertical and Corner Dryer Ducts
You're going to now disconnect the various sections
of dryer ducting to expose the inside lint for removal. The photos show dangerous
lint build up inside a vertical dryer vent right behind the dryer and in a 90 degree bend
a few feet away. You can see all the lint that has built up. Some duct cleaning products
and approaches try and clean this mess from the outside of the home with all of the ducting
intact but if the ducting is accessible, why go through the effort and expense of extremely
long shafted brushes, bags and all that only to end up with a less than good job.
If you just disconnect the vent sections, you'll be able to easily and properly clean each
section and put it back together correctly. In the case of this tutorial's installation,
the dryer duct sections were originally duct taped and screwed together, all of which is
wrong! Your dryer may not have these sections.

If by chance your vent goes up into the wall to your attic, you really need to have it
redone or move your dryer to a place where it can go directly outside with no more than
a 7-8 foot maximum length. This also applies to venting going down into your foundation.
Where we live down on the gulf coast we are at sea level so what do you think is going to
build up? You are trying to get the moisture out of your clothes and the dryer with moisture
in the vent this will not happen, It is in the same line of thinking that water does not
travel up hill so if your line goes up into the attic. Also if you have a basement and it is
vented to go up to a window a few feet up the basement wall. Also if you live in a Mobile home and just let it drop out of the floor to the ground. In the winter especially little critters looking for a nice warm place to make a nest will build at the opening clogging it up.  
To properly disassemble and reassemble the duct sections, proceed as follows:
•Unplug the dryer;
•Turn off the gas valve at the dryer (if it is a gas dryer);
•Disconnect the duct joint closest to the dryer;
•Gently pull the dryer away from the wall;
•Disconnect the remaining sections of dryer duct.
And Rotate Dryer Duct Brush into Ducting
•Fasten the duct brush end to the flexible fiberglass shaft;
•Fasten as many threaded shaft sections together as needed.
•The other end of the brush can either be used to turn the brush manually, by hand, or
it can be fastened into a variable speed drill.
•Insert the duct cleaning brush into the dirty lint lined duct and sweep it clean by using
a rotating motion while pushing the brush back and forth;
•Go slowly and if you use a drill, make sure to use a slower speed. Once most of the lint
debris is removed you can go faster to really clean the duct out.
The Duct Cleaning Process: Before, During and After
Perform this cleaning procedure for each section of dryer duct and all the elbows. Also
make sure the exhaust discharge cap on the outside of the house is cleaned out and has no
lint obstruction.
This is why dryer fires are so dangerous, the lint builds up over time and you get used to
the progressively inefficient drying performance of your dryer. All the while, lint is
dangerously building up.
Reassemble Dryer Ducting
Once the dryer ducting is cleaned out, you now reassemble the duct.
•Attach an adjustable rigid 90 degree elbow to the exhaust end of the dryer. Do not use a
semi-rigid flexible duct as an elbow out of the dryer. As you can see in the photo, the
semi-rigid duct can kink when the dryer is pushed back into place, thereby causing a major
obstruction to exhaust flow.
•Attach all rigid metal and semi-rigid ductwork sections with a 4" worm-drive stainless
steel duct band clamp.
•Turn on gas valve if you have a gas dryer..
•Plug in dryer.
•Make sure lint screen is in place.
•That's it!
Gas Dryers

Dryer Reviews
All dryers use a electric motor to turn a large drum that tumbles the clothes
inside and an electric fan to distribute heated air. There are however, two ways to
create the heat needed to efficiently dry clothes - natural gas or electricity.
Most electric dryers operate on 240-volt current, twice the strength of ordinary household
current, to fuel heating coils.
Natural gas dryers use a gas burner to create heat, but otherwise they operate the same as
an electric dryer.
Making a Choice
If you have both natural gas and 240-volt connections in your laundry room, you have a
choice in dryers. Natural gas dryers cost more to begin with - approximately $50 more
than the comparable electric model. But in most areas natural gas dryers will cost less
to run over their lifetime. Generally speaking, the cost of electricity needed to dry a
typical load of laundry cost twice as much as a load dried with natural gas.
Another advantage of natural gas dryers is faster clothes drying means less time spent on
laundry. And natural gas dryers are easier on fabrics because clothes are dried quicker
and at specific temperatures to adequately evaporate water from the fabric.
When choosing a natural gas clothes dryer, look for:
•Pilotless ignition and automatic shutoff -- find models that offer electronic sensor
drying. They use an electronic moisture-sensing device that "feels" the degree of moisture
in the clothes. When the degree of dryness selected is reached, the dryer automatically
shuts off.
•Automatic cool-down -- a timed interval at the end of the drying cycle when tumbling
continues with the heat off to reduce wrinkling of heat-sensitive synthetic fabrics and
no-iron finishes.

Today's clothes dryers offer a wide-range of features to compliment washing machines.
Before you buy, take time to consider your laundry needs and location.
The main benefit of purchasing a washer/dryer set is that the styles, colors and heights
will match. They are more attractive but certainly not necessary to doing laundry well.

Dryer Types
There are three basic dryer models - High Efficiency Front-Load, High Efficiency Top-Load
and Traditional Front or Top-Load. HE front-load and top-load machines usually offer more
capacity and a steam cycle that is used to remove odors and wrinkles. Traditional dryers
are usually less expensive and still offer a wide range of sizes, multiple temperature
settings and cycle options.

Gas or Electric
Energy Star Ratings
ENERGY STAR does not label clothes dryers since there is little difference in the energy
use between models.
Options and Special Features
Dryers with moisture sensors typically shorten drying times and prevent overdrying that
can shorten the life of your clothing. Noise reduction packages are a good choice if your
dryer is located in a family room. Steam cycles are a nice - but pricey - option and
require a water line for the dryer. The same wrinkle removing results can be obtained in
a steamy bathroom.

If you are planning to stack your washer and dryer, a front-loading machine is the only
option. If you have a small space, look for compact models. Get out that measuring tape
before you go anywhere. Measure the laundry room space - height, width and depth - as well
as the sizes of any appliances you plan to keep, measure the doorways and access areas,
write it all down and take the tape measure with you when shopping. Be certain that the
location of the dryer vent will align with your new dryer.

Home Ideas
Whether you are building a new home or remodeling, there are some considerations that you
should keep in mind as you plan your laundry room.
No matter how much you love or hate your current washer and dryer, you will replace them
someday. Don't customize the laundry to the units you have now, try to leave extra space.
Customized cabinets built around your appliances are great but if you move often, the next
buyers may not find them suitable for their machines.
If you have front loading machines, you should provide 48 inches of clearance in front of
each appliance to provide room to walk around open doors. Storage pedestals are great for
storage and lifting front-loading machines to waist level. But the trade off is the lack
of work space on top of the machines. By skipping the pedestals, you can install the
machines under a counter providing plenty of space for folding laundry.
Storage for detergents, bleach and other products should be secure so that young children
cannot have access. If installing a cabinet or shelf, leave at least six inches of
clearance beyond the top of the washing machine lid.
Adding extra insulation to the walls and floor of the laundry room will help reduce noise
pollution in other areas of the home. A floor drain is also great protection for the rest
of the house in the event a washer hose breaks or the washer overflows. An automatic
shutoff valve is a wonderful addition to the laundry. It senses the electrical current
draw from the washer and only opens the water supply when the machine is in use.
Of course, your plumber and electrician will have specifications for the water and
electrical lines to keep your laundry room up to code in your area. Always use the right
type of electrical connections and never use an extension cord. Plan dryer placement so
keep the vent hose as straight and short as possible. You'll have quicker and safer drying
by reducing the lint accumulation
We have a tendency to overstuff a dryer or a washer with larger-than-recommended loads. Not all
units can handle the same capacity of laundry. Check your manual if unsure how much
your units can handle. When a dryer is overloaded, it puts a strain on the belt that turns
the drum and that can lead to repair costs. When a washer is over loaded it can be much worse.
A larger load can take much longer to dry than two smaller loads, due to better air and
heat circulation. You can also save energy and operating time by using reasonable time
settings. There's no need to run a dryer for thirty minutes if twenty is sufficient.
Restricted air flow can tax the motor, but keeping the lint filter and the area below it
clean, keeps the dryer operating more efficiently.
Window Air Conditioner
Figuring out what size window a/c to purchase.
Room size BTU
0-150 sq ft 5000
150-225 sq ft 6000
225-350 sq ft 8000
350-500 sq ft 10,000
500-650 sq ft 12,000
650-800 sq ft 14,000
800-1100 sq ft 18,000
1300-1600 sq ft 25,000
1600-2300 sq ft 29,000
For each additional person add 500 btu
Make sure you have the correct "r" value for insulation for your region. Getting
more is not going to help just wasting money.
Make sure you get your unit cleaned and checked every year for more efficiency.
The aluminum fins on the outside of your unit should be kept clean and
straightened. This will help keep it running better also with better air flow. We
sell the fin combs that you use if yours have been bumped and flattened out.
Central Air Conditioning/ Furnace
Have your air conditioning cleaned and checked every spring before turning
it on for the year.
Your Furnace or air handler inside should be serviced in the fall. This unit also
has things that need to be done to it in the spring.
If you have alot of pet hair or dust in your house you may want to clean your
a-coil more often. This is something on most units can be done easily. We sell
a coil cleaner that is mixed with water and can be put in a spray bottle and just
spraying it on the top side of coils it will clean them as your unit is running.
Water Heater
If you are changing a element in your water heater we suggest replacing them
both (if your unit has 2) at the same time, if it has been running for some time
on just one element it has put more stress on the only good one left. Which
could mean a month or so and you'll be doing this all over again.
Lamp just decided not to come on? And you know the bulb is good unplug
the lamp take a small screw driver, looking into the socket in the middle you
will see a gold tab. It may be down so far that it cannot make contact with
the bulb base. Pull it up just alittle with the screw driver.
When to switch off your lights

Does switching the lights on and off use more energy than leaving them on? The answer is
no, despite the common misperception that turning a light on creates a power surge. The
thinking is that it's more economical to just leave a light on rather than pay the costs
of flicking it back on.

In reality, that "surge" lasts for only a fraction of second, according to Francis
Rubinstein, a staff scientist at Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory. Any "start-up"
energy costs are minuscule at best and are more than offset by the money you save from
turning your lights off, even if it's only for a short time.
So if you're strictly concerned about saving energy (and money), you should turn your
lights out when you're not using them.
The bigger issue with turning lights on and off frequently, though, has to do with
shortening the product's lifetime, says Christina Kielich at the Department of Energy.
It doesn't affect the lamp life of an incandescent bulb very much, says Rubinstein. So
it makes sense to always turn them off when you leave a room, even if it's only for a few
Compact florescent light bulbs, on the other hand, are a somewhat different story. Flicking
them on and off repeatedly will affect how long they last, although, Rubinstein points out
that the impact is minimal for most households.
How much flicking on and off is too much? The general consensus is that it's best to turn
off CFLs when you are leaving for 15 minutes or longer. In fact, Energy Star recommends
installing florescent bulbs in fixtures that are used for at least 15 minutes at time. So
it doesn't make sense to use them in places where you'd need to switch them on and off
The rule of thumb is a little different when you're at the office, according to Rubinstein.
Turn out florescent lighting when you're leaving for at least 5 minutes. The reason?
Full-size florescent systems aren't as sensitive to frequent cycling as CFLs and won't
impact the life of the bulb as much.
Misc Small Appliance
Carefull making those cold drinks, Putting the ice in first can damage the
blender. Put at least half the liquid in then the ice.
When using your mixer on high before shutting it off put it on a lower speed
instead of shutting it directly off. Run it on a lower speed for at least 30 seconds.

Coffeemaker Care
Coffeemakers tend to have a shorter lifecycle than most other small kitchen appliances.
It's no wonder since they are used the most and left on for long periods of time. To get
the best life from a coffeemaker, give it a routine cleaning by processing a solution of
equal parts of white vinegar and water, followed by a couple of clear water rinses. This
will help to remove mineral build-up that can hamper efficient operation.
When a coffeemaker is equipped with a variable auto shut-off, shorten that period if you
can. There's no sense keeping the coffee hot and the heating element working for four
hours, if you have no intention of drinking coffee that has been sitting for that long.
Build up on the bottom plate of your iron? Try wax paper, if it is teflon.
Rubbing alcohol, if it is bare metal

Razors/ Shavers
Keeping your cutter and heads cleaned after each use will keep them
sharper longer.
If your razor is a chargeable type don't keep it plugged in all the time. The
manufacturer made the batteries with a memory of up to two weeks without
having to plug in. When first purchasing it your initial charge should be a full
charge of 16-24 hours before use. Don't plug it back in til you know it is getting
low. This will help them last longer.
Rechargeable appliances
of any type should be treated the same way. Most
people keep their rechargeable flashlights, hand vacs, etc on charge all the
time when not using. this kills the memory in the battery. Figuring it may only
get used every couple of weeks if that for maybe a minute or so then back on
the charger. After many uses like this it has changed the memory. And will
slowly die off completely.

Spending too much on disposable razors?

  • You'll create less waste - disposable razors contribute an annual estimated 2 million pounds of plastic waste to landfills.
  • Electric razors, while they use electricity, can last for years and many have rechargeable batteries - and a lot of energy goes into making and transporting disposables (plus you avoid the packaging and chems in creams or gels).
  • Straight razor blades also have longer lifetimes and offer the closest shave.
  • Razor cartridge sharpeners extend the life of your disposable blades, reducing the number of disposable razors you use by up to 75% per year.
  • Disposables aren't superexpensive, but electric or straight razors will pay for themselves in a few years.

Vacuums and Steam Cleaners
Anything that restricts proper air flow can affect a vacuum motor and efficiency.
Check hose and attachments for trapped debris; change or clean filters; and empty or
change dirt bag/bin when full. Reduce the risk of dirt filtering through to the motor
by ensuring the bag is clean and inserted properly, and that the filter is clean.
Using the powdered carpet deodorizer can cause damage by getting up into motor,
by clogging filters, if you pick up something wet it turns it paste plus you are breathing
this dust as you are vacuuming . The stuff we use is by Nilofresh it comes in 6 different
fragrances. Nilofresh is a tiny granual not powder.
Best Cordless Vacuum
In today's world of high tech features and convenience options, buying a vacuum can be
overwhelming. These resources can guide you through all the steps from considering what
features are available to selecting the type of vacuum that is right for you. I'll even
give you tips on caring for your new vacuum and provide answers to frequently asked
Vacuum - Buying Tips:
Remember when buying a vacuum expensive vacuums like the Kirby or Filter Queen etc. are made to last for many years, While the cheap ones you get in Walmart and other stores are made to last for just a few years if even that.
No matter what one you choose remember the belt needs to be changed on a regular basis. I usually tell my customers "a 3 bedroom house cleaned once a week, change the belt at least every 6 months. At the same time check the bag and if it has filters clean them or change them at that time. Most vacuums have from 1 to 4 filters".
•If your home has pets, a regular vacuum may not be adequate to clean all the hair and
dander that comes along with pet ownership.
•Upright or canister, stick or sweeper vacuum, learn key factors about each type of
vacuum in Vacuum Types -
Usually small and portable in design, hand-held vacuums
have different functions. There are lightweight and cordless models that are designed for small clean-up jobs such as picking up lint or dirt from a sofa, or a dry cereal mess from the floor. They are also very handy in craft rooms or home shops
Sweepers or Stick
Sweepers are much like the old carpet sweepers used decades ago, with the benefit of cordless convenience. Some models have a certain amount of suction making them ideal for either carpet or bare floors, while others operate solely on a brush-roll technology that scoops the dirt from a carpet into a small tray-like receptacle. Stick vacuums vary in function, power and suction capabilities and features. While most are best suited for hard floors, others can be used to do a quick cleaning of small carpet areas before guests arrive. Since they clean a small path, stick vacuums are impractical for large carpeted areas but will glide more easily over large areas of bare floors.


With a hands-free and battery power technology, robotic vacuums have gained popularity especially with those that need time-saving appliances. You can generally program robot vacuums to clean even while you're away or busy doing something else. They're not cheap though, a good robotic vacuum can cost around the $200 mark or over, which is considerable for a sweeper.

Vacuum power is limited to sweeping and gathering surface dust and dirt. Mobility can be hampered by area rugs, obtacles or trailing curtain ties. Basically, before sending out a robot vacuum, you need to make sure the area is clear of slippers, newspapers, toys or anything that can be lying around on the floor. If you don't mind the prep work and if you have a larger functional vacuum for regular deep cleaning, a robot model is ideal for in-between unattended light cleaning or floor dusting.


Upright vacuums were once designed for carpets only, but most upright models now have all-floor features. They're easier on the back to operate because there is less bending, and they can usually perform most vacuum tasks with adequate suction power. When it comes to budget, upright vacuums are often more economical than canister vacuums. Most popular are the bagless models. But if you have allergies may not be the way to go. Since the bagless cannot be sealed alot of the dust comes out cracks between pieces. You may prefer a bag. Many nowadays have a flap to seal the bag shut as soon as you take it off the vacuum.


Canister vacuums are generally the most practical and functional type of vacuum for either carpets or bare floors. However, performance is greatly improved on carpets if the canister unit has a power bar attachment. Canister vacuums come in a wide range of prices from under one hundred to several hundreds of dollars. They're available in bag or bagless models with features that might include filtration enhancements and air purification technology. Manufacturers have been quick to meet the demand for more compact, easy to carry canister models.
You can clean up after a flood or spill, vacuum gravel from the truck cab or clean carpet or bare floors. They are rather economical for the function they provide, however, wet/dry vacuums are generally noisy, designed for rough use and surfaces and attachments are limited.
They don't generally have good filtration features and will often return a certain amount of dust to the room. However, suction is usually very good and they'll remove gravel from an entrance rug more quickly than other vacuums. With the increase in home use, some of the newer models now include quieter operation and assorted tank sizes. Some models require dust filters.
Steam Cleaners
When using a steam/Extractor carpet Cleaner do not boil the water. The hot water coming out of your tap is as hot as you need it 125-130 degrees. The units that have a built-in heater on them is keeping it at that preferred temperature. If you go hotter besides damaging the machine you are using you are also taking away the stain resistance the manufacturer has put on your carpet and upholstery. The preferred water is distilled water. (Water that has been boiled down to get the the impurities out) Using this type of water especially helps keep the lines and heaters from getting clogged and blocked (less service). Make sure when finished using the machine run clean water through all tanks and lines for a few minutes to rinse out and remove minerals built-up that after sitting for awhile will harden causing the blockages.
As for picking the style of carpet cleaner you want
Kirby is a shampooer that will suds.
Most units bought at retail stores are extractors which do not suds.
There are machines that scrub many different types of floors by changing pads. These units may use water and liquid solutions or dry chemicals.
Then going back to extractors looking at the vacuum with the way a brush roll moves the carpet fibers. Some units have small rotary brushes that move your carpet fibers differently to help them stand up better and remove deep down dirt.

Ceiling Fans
How should the ceiling fan rotate during summer and winter?
Is your ceiling fan on the
proper setting? It could save you energy dollars if it rotates correctly.
Answer: Ceiling fans provide great air circulation and you can optimize these benefits
by ensuring the rotation of the blades is correct for circulating warm air or a cooling
During winter heating, to help circulate warm air that is trapped on the ceiling, blades
should turn 'forward' in a clockwise motion. This movement will push up the air and pull
the warm trapped air down the sides of the room improving heat distribution.
During hot summer weather, to help produce a comfortable breeze or 'windchill' that cools
the skin, blades should rotate in a 'reverse' counter-clockwise motion. The air movement
has the same comfortable effect as when you fan yourself with a magazine to get relief
from hot, stifling air.
Ceiling fans in themselves do not heat or cool a room, but the air movement or circulation
they effect by the correct blade rotation, can greatly improve the comfort of your living
You can also save in energy costs when the ceiling fan is on the correct setting to
support your cooling or heating efforts.
How to Conduct Your Own Test
Since fan settings and blade angles are set by the manufacturer and these design features
dictate how the fan operates, your fan could be designed to work opposite to the above
settings. If your fan has instructions for summer/winter use, follow those guidelines.
But in the absence of product information as to what setting is best for summer or winter
for your particular fan, follow standard rotation recommendations for summer/winter, or
conduct your own test:
On the first or forward setting, explore where the air movement is detected, then make a
reference note as a reminder for seasonal change. Then try the second or reverse setting.
These are the optimum setting effects:
In the summer, you want to feel the air circulating underneath and around the area reached
by the fan. On a hot day, you would feel more comfortable and can detect air circulation on
the right setting.
In winter, as hot air rises, it becomes trapped at the ceiling level. On the correct winter
setting, the fan should push air up and draw that hot air down the side walls of the room.
You would feel practically no air movement underneath and only a little air circulation
closer to the walls. During summer this setting does not provide any comfort or enough air
circulation to the room. But it does bring the hot air down to warm the cooler air closer
to the floor.

Cast Iron Pans
Question: How Do You Season or Cure Cast Iron Fry Pans or Skillets?
Uncoated cast iron skillets or fry pans must be cured or seasoned before you can use
them - what is this process, and do the words 'curing' and 'seasoning' mean the same
Answer: Cast iron cookware should be cured, inside and out including lids, if the pan is
new and has not been pre-cured by the manufacturer, or if your pan is old, and the
seasoning has worn off.
Many manufacturers are now marketing pans that have been pre-seasoned. In this case, the
curing process has been done for you, but read the product manual carefully to see if
there are any initial washing instructions to follow.
The words 'curing' and 'seasoning' both refer to the process of coating your pan with
grease and oven-cooking it, which fills the pores of the cast iron, and renders your pan
with a natural, nonstick-type of coating.
To maintain the curing on your pan, you should only rinse or quickly wash with mild soapy
water after each use. Too much scrubbing and hot water will remove the curing, and the pan
will require a re-seasoning. It is normal for your pan to require a re-seasoning
•Prepare your pan by scrubbing it with hot soapy water, ensuring there is no food residue
or rust, and dry it completely.
•Warm the pan up slightly, and apply a coat of melted shortening to the inside and outside.
Liquid cooking oils are not recommended.
•Preheat your oven to 350 degrees and put your cookware in upside right, on a foil-covered
cooking sheet, to catch any drips. If you use a non-covered baking sheet, it will require
a good scrub afterwards - the foil saves on the cleanup.
•Bake for approximately 20 minutes. If it starts to smoke, reduce the temperature by 10-15
degrees until it stops. This may increase the time by a few minutes, but will not hurt the
•Drain off any excess grease, and put the pan back in the oven, this time upside down, for
1 to 3 hours. A re-seasoning may only require half of that time.
•Turn the oven off, and let the pan cool down naturally before removing it.
You now have a seasoned cast iron nonstick cooking utensil that will last a lifetime with
proper care.
Peanut Oil at 350 degrees also works well.

Recycling Old Appliances
When discarding your old appliance, either as a trade-in or for scrap, make sure you
leave all the parts with the unit. Without all the pieces to it, there is little
chance that anyone will be able to repair it for resale. On older models, items such
as shelves, trays and drawers are usually the hardest to find and the most expensive
to replace if not included with the unit.
If the dealer is removing the old appliance for you, try to find out if they donate the
old appliance to a charitable organization for resale or if they just scrap it. If they
just toss it out.
Please keep in mind that most charities would usually prefer to receive items in working
condition. If you have not-too-old of appliances which are still functioning but you are
remodeling and just replacing the existing ones, they would likely make a good donation.
Older refrigerators and freezers however may not be accepted as they are likely to be
energy hogs.

Small Appliances and vacuums

If you have a store like us that works on all appliances they will sometimes take them

because so many manufacturers are making it more difficult to get parts we can scrap

them for certain items that are really popular.